Table Top Epoxy Resin Superclear 64 oz | 2 Quart Kit, Anti-Yellow Highest UV Impact Resistance, Food Grade Safe, Ultra Crystal Clear Gloss, Bubble Free, Bar & Surface Coat, Tumblers, Wood, DIY

I bought this product as well as the Liquid Glass version, for a coffee table made out of a tree trunk slice. This was my first project with Epoxy, and the Superclear team was very helpful to answer my newbie questions along the way. They were very friendly and provided great coaching. I will use their products again in the future and I strongly recommend them. I am still working on the project and will add pictures once completed. Here are some suggestions from my own experience:- Choose the right epoxy for the right application. If you are going to do a deep pour (> 1/4") you are going to need either a deep pour epoxy, or several layers of tabletop epoxy.- Have your tools ready (epoxy, mixing container, paint mixing stick, timer, gloves, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol for cleanup, torch for bubbles) and protect your work area because some of the epoxy will spill from the side of your workpiece- Follow the mixing instructions carefully (this product is mixed with a 1:1 volume ratio - I bought some cheap mixing cups -- use a timer and scrape the sides of your mixing container to make sure the product is thoroughly mixed. Failure to do so could result in the product not curing, or not curing evenly)- Check the temperature -- it was cold when I was doing my pours and I had challenges with it, although SuperClear epoxy is very forgiving (bubbles make their way to the surface and they pop). If the wood is cold, it will bubble up when you apply the epoxy (and it will keep bubbling up for hours). I ended up bringing the workpiece into a ventilated room and having a small heater to warm up the room, so that the wood would be at > 70 degrees- Prepare the wood carefully - make sure it is flat and that small holes are filled. A good solution is clear CYA glue (like 2P10) + a CYA activator to dry the glue faster. If you do not do that, the epoxy will go into these holes, and the epoxy top will not be flat. Once the glue is dry, it can be sanded flat with 80 Grits (I use a random orbital sander). If you want, and based on your specific project, you can use a colored CYA glue.- Start with a thin layer of epoxy, to let the wood absorb the epoxy (1 Oz per square foot). Apply the epoxy and then use a torch to blow up the bubbles. More than likely, the absorption of the epoxy will not be even across the wood surface and you will notice all the holes which were not visible before. Epoxy has an uncanny ability to show these holes, due to surface tension.- At this stage, you have 2 options: either you apply the next coat when the first one is still tacky, or you wait for the first coat to cure completely and then sand it with 220 Grits to allow the next coat to bond to the previous coat. If you do so, wear a mask! Epoxy dust is not good for your lungs. Once sanded, the surface will look white. Clean it with a rag, vacuum it and clean again with a wet paper towel to remove any resin powder. That wet finish is what it will look like once the next coat is applied. You are now ready for a second coat, and do not worry too much about sanding marks, as epoxy has a magic ability to hide them. Depending on the imperfections and the size of the holes, you might need to repeat this process until you are ready for your last pour. I have seen some people apply epoxy to just the areas with holes, until they were filled. You can theoretically use CYA glue as well, but it might turn yellow over time so I did not want to take that risk.- The last pour will have 3x the volume of the previous pours. Use a notched trowel to distribute the epoxy, and use your gloves to rub the epoxy onto the sides of your piece. Use the torch to remove the bubbles, and ideally cover your piece while it dries, so that you do not get pet hair or specks of dust into your epoxy (I am still struggling with that speck-free finish, to be honest). The larger pour volume will cover the last remaining imperfections, leading do a beautiful, flat, glossy finish.- If you need to protect the bottom side of your piece from epoxy drips, apply painters tape to the bottom side (just around the periphery), and once the top is fully cured, turn the piece upside down and use a heat gun to soften the epoxy drips and remove the painters tape.- If you need to fill larger holes, then you might need deep pour epoxy, and you will need to make sure that the hole does not go through the other side of the piece. If it does, you can use packing tape to mask the hole on the bottom side. You might also need wood (MDF covered with packing tape works well) to keep the epoxy from running. Also, you can apply a bead of silicone around the hole on the top side, so that you can overpour the epoxy on that side, to allow for some settling. See videos online for more advice.I hope this helps!

Used this to redo a bathroom counter that had a previous epoxy finish that turned yellow. Superclear has the UV inhibitor and had good reviews so I went with that one and also used a darker color underneath (dark gray with quick sprays of Rustoleum granite) so if it does yellow a bit, it won't show as much. This product is self-leveling but it is thick so you need to use enough of it. I went with 3oz per square foot and I would say to make sure to use at least that much if not a little more. If you are doing a dirty pour then you will need a lot more than that. After I got the product out of bucket, I used a 1/8 inch trowel to spread and then used the chop-brush method. That works great to give a final mix of the product and ensure it is evenly spread. I did this on a 50 degree day, kept the door closed and the window cracked to allow as much working time as possible but I only got about 20 minutes after it was spread. Use the chop brush quickly - you will get bubbles but torch them quickly and then every few minutes when new ones show up. If you don't use enough product, it won't flow nicely over the edge - I have a few ridges even after brushing the product on the edges to help it flow over. Also, after 20 minutes stop messing with it or you will get divots. I saw a tiny hair near the sink and I got it out with a toothpick but it left a divot. To fix that, I waited 5 hours, mixed up about 1oz per square foot and rolled it on the entire counter with a foam roller. I dropped a bit extra in the divet and torched the bubbles - that worked so make sure you have a little extra in case you need it. It was hard to the touch the next day but I let it cure for 7 days before putting anything back on the counter.Overall the counter looks great. There are a few tiny imperfections but no one would ever notice them. Just be prepared to work quickly and then walk away.

Used on Kitchen countertops. I’ve used many epoxy before (including Stone Coat Epoxy which I do like). I bought this one because it was less expensive and was incredibly surprised and how beautifully it went on, it self leveled quickly, and had VERY little bubbles, (which I used a blow torch to remove easily).. It cured in only 48 hours and was completely cured within 7 days. It was easy to work with, added color pigments without a problem. very impressed!

Awesome! Very easy to work with. My project turned out great. Will be ordering more.

Not my favorite. I ordered this brand before but ordered the countertop clear epoxy. Love, love, love that one. It is so easy and goes down so beautifully. This one produced way too many bubbles. I only mix this one manually and was careful not to produce too many bubbles. Even when mixing it there were airborne bubbles coming out of the bucket like it was soap bubbles. The consistency is thicker and a little harder to work with. I achieved a bubble free pour using a heat gun but it wasn’t as easy to get rid of them as the countertop epoxy one. I ordered this one on accident, but there are no returns so I had to proceed with this one. The smell seems a bit stronger too. Cure time was a little faster than the countertop epoxy as well.

This was my first experience with table top epoxy and I found it more difficult to work with than deep pour, since it is thicker. My seal coats were poured with the room temp around 70 and it was hard to spread and had an uneven texture, but I made sure my flood coat was in the 74-75 degree range and the product worked great. I spread it with a 1/8 in notched trowel and it self leveled to a smooth glassy finish. My project turned out great!

I was disappointed with this table top epoxy. The consistency was like thick syrup. There were lots of bubbles during the mixing process, and even though I spread the epoxy thin, it was difficult to remove all bubbles. The thickness also impacted the ability of the epoxy to self level, leaving an uneven surface. I have not had this issue with other table top epoxies.